Day 19 of our trip saw us starting our day by crossing to Mull. We headed for one of our favourite quiet corners, where we can feed the chaffinches and enjoy an empty beach. Sadly everyone else seems to have found our quiet spot! Nonetheless we had fun watching a Rock Pipit feeding it's young, and Red-breated Mergansers bobbing around offshore. One of the oddities we saw was a Rhododendren bush growing out of a tree - presumably a seed had been dropped into a hollow, and found sufficient nutrients to grow and flower - a kind of natural grafting! It's always reassuring to find that the honesty shop is still in business, and was doing a roaring trade in ice-creams.
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Rhododendron bush growing out of tree |
That evening we found some more wildlife - our first tick of the trip. It was really tiny, and it took a few goes to get the 'tick-card' to get a grip on it, but once it did it came out cleanly - there's quite an population of ticks now, not just in Scotland, so it's a good investment to get a 'tick-card' and keep it in your wallet/purse. Over the trip we found three of them between us!
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Unexpected wildlife visitor - tiny Tick |
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Sunset over the sound of Mull |
The next day (20) w
e left the crowd behind and headed for a spot in central Mull that is good for White-tailed Eagles, and we weren't disappointed - and found one high up in one of the trees overlooking the sea. After twenty minutes or so, it stretched it's wings, and we were treated to flyover. We did see an Otter here too, though it wouldn't pose long enough for any photos.
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White-tailed Eagle - Central Mull |
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White-tailed Eagle - Central Mull |
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Glengorm Castle |
This evening brought a treat for Mrs M, princess for a night at Glengorm castle - or Hogwarts as we know it! We nearly needed steps to get into bed, and the library came with great views and complimentary whisky, making for a a most enjoyable evening!
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Bed fit for a princess - nearly needed steps to get in! |
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Whisky in the library |
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Sunset from the library |
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Last of the light. |
The following morning (21) continued the special treatment with a splendid breakfast, again with a wonderful view. While Glengorm fits into the 'not-cheap' category it was a real delight to stay here, and it was with reluctance that we headed off to Tobermory for another treat - a boat trip to Staffa and Lunga,
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Breakfast - and what a view! |
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Tobermory |
The trip out from Tobermory saw Gannets, Guillemots and lots of Shag. Then as we closed on Staffa we began to see Puffins on the water. Staffa itself was an example of careful choreography - tour boats taking turns to drop visitors at the narrow quay, and then wait offshore while the human crocodile works around to Fingal's Cave and back. While undeniably a 'tourist' experience, it was fascinating to see the basalt rock formations curving around the cave and cliffs. Once we were back on the boat it was slowly (and carefully) backed into the entrance of the cave with Mendelssohn's Hebrides overture playing over the speakers - twee I know, but a good bit of fun, and it certainly brought a day-long smile!
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Gannet at sea |
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Staffa |
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Staffa |
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A smile!! This day was a hit!! |
From Staffa we made the short trip to Lunga - and Puffins galore! We spent a happy couple of hours watching these characters; collecting nesting material, bill rubbing, and lots of soft 'Arrrr' calls. As long as we kept quiet and calm the Puffins were happy to come very close, just a few feet away.
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Puffins on Lunga |
If we thought that the day's highlights were over, we were much mistaken - the journey back brought us close to the shore on the north of Mull, and we were treated to very close views of a White-tailed Eagle on the rocks, sitting there calmly as many cameras clicked away. It felt rather close, yet the boat handler took the boat in very slowly, and the eagle seemed unfazed. As we pulled gently away the eagle remained, so it looks as though they had judged it right, and a lot of people went away with an amazing experience.
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White-tailed Eagle - Northern Mull |
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White-tailed Eagle - Northern Mull |
If the puffins and eagle weren't enough, as we pulled away a small pod of Harbour Porpoise started fishing just beside the boat, making this a trip that will be long remembered.
The following day (22) brought a minor panic followed by an unexpected blessing - we had an email from where we were due to be staying on Iona - they'd had a booking problem and had over-booked. Would this mean we had nowhere to stay? It took a couple of hours to find enough phone signal to get through - Yes, they'd overbooked. And they were really open about it; they'd made a mistake, and they'd booked a night in a B&B at no extra charge - would that be ok? It turned out that the B&B was in probably the best hotel on the island. It was a lovely room, overlooking the sea, and made for a wonderful evening. We heard corncrakes through the evening; none to see but the sound was unmistakeable. The highlight was watching Starlings feeding young in the stone walls - one chick was so eager to be fed it had pushed itself right to the front. It's siblings were less than amused that there were missing out on food, and one of them pooped right on the cocky chicks head - deliberate or not? Make your own mind up, but it was certainly a lot quieter the next time the parents came back!
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Iona |
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Starlings in stone wall on Iona |
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Starling chick not happy at being pooped on by sibling! |
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Sunset on Iona |
On day 23 we returned back to a moody Mull, and then made our way across to the ferry to the mainland. There we had a good look for the Black Duck at Strontian. We found something looking hopeful, but I'm not convinced that it wasn't a hybrid, one of a number believed to be in the area.
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Very brightly marked Grey Heron - South Mull |
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Great Northern Diver - West Mull contrasting breeding and non-breeding plummages |
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Moody lighting in Loch na Keal |
The following day (24) saw us pondering over the Black Duck again, and in the process walking along the river, to be met by the unexpected sight of bats feeding in daytime - 11 am on a fairly bright day, albeit in a a section of river that is overhung by many trees. They were too quick for the camera, but we could make out the brown fur on their backs, and the scalloped wings. After this the temperature soared, so by and large we reduced ourselves to tourists, enjoying the views, but too tired to concentrate on looking for birds! This is a place we'd like to come back to, and spend some more time - we only scratched the surface.
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Ardnamurchan |
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Ardnamurchan |
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Ardnamurchan |
At last (day 25) we had to start our way back... We dallied as long as we dared on the shore of Loch Linhe, only dashing for the ferry once we'd seen lightening, and the rain had started falling. From there a long drive down to Falkirk, where the one-way system was beyond comprehension!
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Thunder clouds gathering over Loch Linhe |
The final day (26) saw us visiting the Kelpies for some gratuitous tourist photos before heading for Holy Island, and finally for Amble, for the last bird trip of the holiday, a boat trip around Coquet Island. We saw plenty of Guillemot and Puffin, even a Gannet or two. Of course, the real target were the Roseate Terns. Amongst the many Sandwich, Common, and Arctic Terns we eventually found them, tucked away near the boxes where they nest. From there we began the long trip south and west, heading home at last...
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The Kelpies |
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Kelpie up close |
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The Ethereal Kelpie - reflection in the canal |
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Pilgrims route to Holy Island |
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Roseate Tern - Coquet Island |
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Roseate Tern - Coquet Island |
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Wind Turbine in low cloud |